Godfrieds only sells Raw denim, this means that we only sell unwashed or untreated denim, you get the pair of jeans in the fabric as we buy it at our suppliers (dark bleu ,hard and stiff), it is up to the client to make his pair of jeans a used one by wearing it intensively.
A new pair of jeans will be "broken" after a few days of wearing and will have adapted to your movements and shapes.
The result will be that after months of wearing the jeans, it becomes part of you , and it will have a use image that is part of you and your habits.
The picture shows a raw jeans and a 270 days worn one.
Normally you should rotate your jeans,always have 3 pairs in rotation:
- a new raw pair,
- a pair you've been wearing for a year ,
- and your favorites - those that have been on the front lines for the longest.
More in our blog
Selfedge denims (link) are woven the old fashioned way on shuttle looms (photo), in the style descriptions of the different styles you will find the availability of the fabrics per style.
This way of weaving results in a bonded selvedge at the edges of the fabric.
We make sure that the side seams of our jeans are cut at this selvedge, so that our jeans have an open seam that becomes visible when you wear the jeans cuffed (photo).
This way of weaving used to be the standard, now there are only 10 weaving mills that produce this denim.More in our blog
At the moment we have 3 selfedge denims, all 3 are 100 % cotton (no stretch).
- An Italian from Candiani lighter 13 oz denim the color is bluer than the others
40 %BCI cotton (BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE)
- A Japanese from Collect a slightly heavier 14 oz denim, the color is more gray bleu
100 % organic cotton GOTS (GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD)
- A Japanese from Collect a Extra heavy 18 oz denim, the color is more gray bleu
100 % cotton
- The Japanese weaving mill "Collect" is part of the "Japan blue" group that also produces the Momotaro jeans.
|Italian denim 13 oz||Japanese denim 14oz||Japanese denim 18 oz|
The pants shown here have been worn for 365 days and washed every 4 weeks.
The left leg is the slightly lighter blue Italian denim.
The right leg is Japanese heavier and darker gray-blue denim.
at the moment we offer 4 Styles .
- Style 5010 straight leg jeans worn on the hips, this trouser is available as standard sizes (STD) or made to measure (MTM).
- Style 5001 the same jeans as 5010 but in a bibtrousers only available in made to measure (MTM).
- Style 5015 skirt worn on the hips, this skirt is only available in made to measure (MTM), you can chose a skirttype and slitype.
- Style 5016 bibskirt worn on the hips, this bibskirt is only available in made to measure (MTM), you can chose a skirttype and slitype.
by chosing our made to measure MTM styles you can decide yourself if you want a
- ......... pair of jeans
By playing with the oversize measurements you create your own fit based on your bodymeasurements.
We've managed to make our jeans out of 100% natural (organic) materials. Theoretically our jeans are 100% compostable with 0% indigestible residual material.
We use non-petrochemical raw materials (99%) you won't find any metals either, in normal jeans you can find aluminum, copper, brass, steel ....used for buttons,rivets and zipper.
- Main fabric, denim, is 100% cotton, the Italian Candiani denim exists 40% BCI cotton, the Japanese denim is 100% Gots cotton. As we are a very small company we have no influence on the textile mills that produce denim, it is up to them to look for ecological cotton and production processes., what we can do is buy the one we believe in the most. A Belgian linen would be ideal, locally spun, dyed and woven in linen (for the future ?)
- Pocketing fabric is a 100% cotton, and no mix of polyester so that afterwards (when the pants are discarded) our pocketing will not cause microplastics.
- The stitching yarn is 100% linen (UK), for this, we use yarns that until recently were mostly used in the leather industry. This yarn is stronger than the normal used polyester yarn, which can also cause microplastics. For seams where we don't have extreme forces (overlock yarn), we use 100% cotton yarn.
- The buttons we use are Corozo buttons, also called vegetable ivory, and has long been used as a material for buttons, long before the arrival of plastic buttons. These buttons are made from the nuts of the Phytelephas.
- We deliver our jeans unwashed, RAW. So we are not going to wash our jeans and we are not going to process them chemically or mechanically to "imitate" the wear and tear that normal jeans will automatically receive after 1 year of intensive wear. It is completely irresponsible to consciously wear out and weaken a good pair of jeans to make an imitation that, in 90% of the cases, does not look anything like it at all. On this link what is RAW
- We promote washing raw-denim jeans "as less as" possible at home, which in the course of time makes the authenticity of the natural sore even more beautiful and pronounced. On this link you can see and learn how to treat your jeans
- At this momnet we don't offer stretch fabrics.
The "stretch-dilemma": at this moment stretch fabrics are very commonly used for clothing, also in the denim.Especially here are the most stretch fabrics of the type with elastomers (eg Lycra ....) this ensure that in every thread (of the stretch direction) an elastomer filament (foto) is coagulated, the question is where your jeans end after scrapping, and whether or not they end up with all other microplastics
in the production process we take into account every possible detail to do this in the most sustainable way possible,we split sustainability into the 3 P's (people planet profit)
-people:at the moment we are a one man company and small scaled, if we grow we will hire local people to help our production , and produce jeans for our market (Benelux)
if we still have to expand we wil set up a new production unit centralized in the new sales market. Like this it will always be local people that produce the jeans.
-planet: we strive to skip (in the future) certain production steps that are regarded as normal and necessary in the clothing industry. Like this we try to eliminate Sanfor and skewing of the denim, we process this in the patterns and if expertly followed up in the production we achieve the same result but without gigantic machines and factory halls.
We are also considering setting up a repair service to repair our jeans, how we should set up this practically and ecologically responsible is still the question, we can't drive 100 km to pick up a garment to repair.
We are small scaled, and only sell in the Benelux, this means that we are not traveling around the world to produce a pair of jeans.
We buy our denim (mainly) in Italy, the only country where we can buy selfedge denim, we have no influence on them where they buy their cotton, and how this cotton has been cultivated, but as they participate in the BCI (better cotton initiative) they are doing effort on this.
-profit: the profit that will be made by selling our jeans will be used to try to ame for our goals that we've set up in our vision, we will not pay a dividend to our shareholders, because we do not have shareholders.
We are not focussing on the recycling projects, we go for
- 100% pure natural materials,
- our local production process without unnecessary steps or excessive energy consumption,
- and the way of handling our jeans by our clients (limited washing and ironing during the life time of our jeans)
More in our blog
In principle, all our styles are genderless.
We construct the patterns based on the body measurements you give us, ladies or gentlemen it does not matter.
Nevertheless, we ask for your gender when ordering.
We only do this for 1 reason, the proportion of the back pocket to the backwith.
Below you can see two photos of our jeans,
the left one with the female back pocket variant
the right one with the male back pocket variant
This applies to all our styles of trousers, bib pants, skirts and bib skirts ...
For the assembly of our garments, we use the highest quality raw materials and methods that fit our vision.
For the main fabric, denim, we use selfedge denim, this type of denim is woven according to the age-old way with shuttle-looms which, as a result, gives a nicely bound selvedge to the fabric that we use in the side seam of our trousers.
The trousers are hand stitched in our atelier in Belgium, on machines that have been used for decades, and still, are used for manufacturing jeans. We are the sixth generation in a row that makes professional clothing in Belgium and so have the craftsmanship in the genes and use this craftsmanship in our pants.On the picture you can see the 3th generation Henri and 4th generation Frans.
We firmly believe in chainstitch machines (above the lockstitch machines) that gives an elastic stitch and therefore will break less quickly, all stitches, except the bar tacks and design stitch on the backpockets are chainstitch.
The sensitive felled seams are made by hand so that they don't open after wearing or washing (eg inseam and back seam)
Our buttons are Corozo buttons, before the plastic buttons, this was a common button worldwide. These buttons are manually sewn in order to get a nice Neck Wrapping.
As for sewing thread, we mainly use linen yarn, which used to be very common, which is a beautiful and very strong yarn that becomes even stronger when wet.
Since September 2018 we are officially recognized as craftsman.
how to care for your jeans, in every garment of Godfrieds there will be a stamp telling you what to do .
As you know we don't wash the jeans, so you receive an unwashed pair of jeans. The denim is not treated and it is very important that you wash your jeans inside out. The starch on the fabric that has been used to ameliorate the weaving process is still on the fabric and can cause break lines on the jeans, what we don't want. (those break lines are considered as a washing defect and can never be removed of your pair of jeans)
Wash your jeans as less as possible, this wil accentuate more the whiskers that that will appear on your jeans, the base color of your jeans will be kept darker bleu for a longer time if you wash the jeans less, als by using detergent for black or dark colors will give nicer results. If you also don't iron your jeans, the whiskers will always be on the same place and be more accentuated. The only detail that can be ironed is the side seam , these should always be open (self edges of the denim).Normally these side seams will be open, but after washing it is possible they close or turn to one side.
As it is the first time you will wash the jeans it is important to wash separately, or together with other bleu jeans , because all dye particles that are not bounded to the cotton will come floating in the water and can color other garments in the machine.
if you want to follow the extreme Raw jeans wearers, you have to wash your jeans in a tub, don't put them in a dryer or tumbler ... all details you can find here
On the washing and care symbols you see the following info
- you can wash on 60 C°
- don't use bleaching products
- you can tumble dry your jeans hot
- you can Iron hot
- you can use Normal cleaning process with no restrictions
all these guiding are the max , you can always go lower
Our trousers are produced in Belgium and do not travel around the world to reach the final consumer, like this they are not made by children or otherwise exploited people. Producing in Belgium means that every step of the productions is done in Belgium, styling,pattern making, cutting, sewing, finishing and packing.
In the first set-up and also for the future it is our intention to be and remain small-scale (Company link), this is the only way (we believe) to remain ecological and to avoid unnecessary transport and production steps. If we break out of our grind, then our philosophy is to copy the production unit that we have and plant it in a new "sales" market, so we can deliver that new market by their "own" production unit.
At the moment we are struggling with the problem of what to do with customers who want to purchase jeans from another continent, are we going to deliver them or not? At the moment we stay in the Benelux.
we produce jeans for which we make a pattern that is completely mathematical calculated in a spreadsheet following all the measurements we receive from the client. Measuring these measurements is not that easy for the client but this method gives the best result on wearing comfort. By using this method we may also say that we produce gender-neutral patterns. The biggest difference between ladies and men's cut is mainly the proportions between different measurements (ex-waist and hips), so by choosing an MTM version of jeans we produce jeans following your proportions resulting in a jeans for "you" gender-neutral. However, we need to mention that certain styles have a certain Look that can be typical male or female. Our 5010 style is a typical male trouser worn on the hips and normally not worn as a slim fit.You can find a printable guide for jeans here and for skirts here.
|the measurements we need need to produce an MTM jeans are divided into 3 main groups|
Style depending measurements that are typical for the style you want (eg side length of the jeans)
|over sizes, by these measurements, you decide the fitting of the garment. do you want the garment close to the body (slim fit) or more comfortable|
|wearer depending measurements are the basic measurements of the wearer that are mainly body measurements that can be used for different styles (ex-round of hips)|
if this is all too complex or too many work then we have another solution that is the version of the trouser following standard measurement charts (STD), to produce jeans in this way , we only need the waist and inseam and we will produce jeans for you like al the other brands produce jeans in the Mass productions, note that our production is always piece production....you order 1 piece , we make 1 piece.More in our blog
If you order a standard jeans, we will produce the jeans following the measurements below.
|all measurments in cm||val110||val20||val50||val60||val40||val120|
|size in inch|
|29||74,9||99,1||48,9||38,7||32 34 36||Innerleg +rize|
We offer the possibility to our clients to send back garments, that have been produced and sold by Godfrieds, to repair.
Contact us by mail to agree, and send back the garments, at your expense.
After payment of the repaircosts we send them back at our expense. More details in the salesconditions
As you can see in our sales conditions there is a difference to send back garments depending on the type STD or MTM.
For STD standard garments we can take these back. As we strive for ecology and sustainability, we are not of the type of webshop that promotes the sending back of purchased goods.(loss of energy and unnecessary polluting)
Attention we do not have to take back made-to-measure clothing, as these garments have been made specifically according to the customer's requirements and can not be sold to another client.
All returns are sent back at the expense of the customer.
These are the payments we offer at this moment .
SEPA bank transfer
Credit card Mastercard - Visa - Amercican Express
KBC/CBC Payment Button
Belfius Pay Button
Our price setting is based on the measurements of the garments.
for basic jeans we use this way af calculating.
- for standard sizes (STD) these prices are depending on the waist and inner leg length , following the rules we've set up. We add a calculated surplus when waist and inner leg are passing a certain measurement. When you choose an STD jeans and you enter the waist and inner leg you will see the calculated price.
- for made to measure (MTM) these prices are depending on the hips and side length , following the rules we've set up. We add a calculated surplus when hips and side length are passing a certain measurement.When you choose an MTM jeans and you enter the measurements you want, the system will calculate the price before adding to your shopping cart.
This calculated surplus is also depending on the style and fabric you choose.
Godfrieds jeans are on sold by our online store.
We developed our online store ourselves, its a Drupal CMS (7) with the commerce module as a central part.
Drupal is not the only open source application that we use in our production chain, the patterns are calculated in a Libre Office spreadsheet.
This spreadsheet generates an XML file that we then import into Inkscape, which ultimately creates an SVG file that we export to a plotter.
The only not open source thing we use is our windows operating system.